这个夏天,一场名为“When Elegance Meets Art雅艺之美”的古董珠宝展在北京今日美术馆上演,近360件Van Cleef & Arpels梵克雅宝历史上打造的高级珠宝悉数呈现,将过去百年的珠宝风格变迁娓娓道来。
meiyigeshidaidouyunyulegezideshishangfengchao,chengzaileshidaifenghuadefuzhuangyufaxingsuizheshijianzhujianxiaoshibujian,eryongxuliuchuandegaojizhubaoqueweicenggaibiansihao。neixieningjulechaoliufengshangdezhubao,rutongyijianjiancuicanershengdongdehuashi,jiluzhemeigeshidaidefenggebianqian。cici“when elegance meetsartyayizhimei”gudongzhubaozhanjianghuichixuzhijinnian8yue5ri,daininlinglvezhubaojiedebainianfengyun。

1920年代:装饰艺术与异域风情

collaretxianglian-bali,1929nian
bojin、zumulv、zuanshidazaodexianglianshiyongledaliangdejiheyuansu,shizhuangshiyishufenggedetixian。
“paoxiaodeershiniandai”shiyishuwuyouwulvmengfadezhanjianshiqi,balichengweigongrendeyishu、shexiang、yulezhidou。xinyishufengchaobeichongshangjianyuexiantiaodezhuangshiyishufenggequdai。zi1920niandaiqi,balidezhubaoshangmenkaishizaicuicandezuanshizhongdianzhuihongbaoshi、zumulvyijilanbaoshi。zhizuogongfangyanfachubaomianqiege、buguizetuyuanxingqiegejifa,weibaoshidewaixinghesecaizengtianbiezhiyunwei,henduozhubaodouchengxianchuaijiyijidongfangdeyiyuyuansu。

roseshuazhuanghe-bali,1926nian
zuanshi、hongbaoshi、zumulv、huangselanbaoshi、feicui、falangdazaodehuazhuanghejijuyiyufengqing。
zhanlanzhong,yijianyu1926nianchuangzuodehuazhuanghebianshiqizhongdedaibiao。zheijianjiazuocaiyongzhenzhumubeixiangqian,biaomiandezhuangshituanwanruozhongshijifenggehuihuadeweihuizuopin。shenmidedongfangfengqing、zhongguoheribenwenhuaweiquanxinbaoshidapeitigongyuanyuanbuduandelingganyuanquan,manao、qingjinshi、lvsongshiyijizhenzhumubeidengcaizhipeiyifalangheqihuigongyi。
1930年代:光华绚烂的隐秘式镶嵌
20shiji30niandaimo,fuhenvxingxiandaishenmeibiaozhundexinshixiangqiangongyizaizhubaoyugaojizhubaozhizaolingyuchulufengmang。yiyusuidengyongyouyaguangbiaomiandecaizhiyijibiaomianguangzedehuangkjinchuangzuochudecaizhizuhededaoleriyiguangfandeyingyong。dangshi,huangkjinzaichuangzuozhongdeshiyonglvgenggao。yingbaoshiduoyuzuanshidapei,shuijingzechangyuhuangkjinzuhe。yinmishixiangqiangongyiyezaizheigeshidaizhujianfazhan,chengweigaojizhubaodezhongyaobiaozhi。

wavesshoulian-bali,1936nian
huangkjin、bojin、zuanshi、caiyongyinmishixiangqiandehongbaoshikanbudaojinshudebiankuang。
fankeyabaoyu1933nianhuodeyinmishixiangqiangongyidezhuanli,qilingganyuanzi19shijiluomaweixingmasaikegongyi。yinmishixiangqiantongchangyongyuhongbaoshiyulanbaoshidexiangqian,gaigongyikejiangxiangzuoyinzangqilai,qiaomiaodichengxianchubaoshitongtoudeguangyingmeigan。

hummingbirdbaibaoxia-bali,1938nian
huangkjin、zuanshi、yinmishixiangqianhongbaoshiyulanbaoshidazaodebaibaoxiashangyiyinmishixiangqiangongyichengxianhuaduoyuqueniaodelingdongzhimei。
zhuangzailegeshipeishihegongjudewanyanbaibaoxiazaizheigeshidaizhujianfengxing。zaoqikuanshizhong,bufenzuopindediaokexiantiaocaiyongfangshezhuangxuanwosheji,dapeizhutizhuangshiyuyinmishixiangqiangongyi。qitazuopinzecaiyongqihuigongyi、juanzhouzaoxingzhuangshihuozuanshixiangbian。20shiji30niandaimo,zuopindezhuangshineirongbiandegengjiafengfuduoyang,rouheshengdongdeniaoleihefenggehuazhiwuzhutikaishichuxian。
1940年代:战火纷飞的黄金时代
diercishijiedazhanqijian,gejiazhubaoshangdeyunyingyufazhanchuxianmingxianfanghuan。youyuzhenxibaoshibuzaibeiyunwangouzhou,zhongduozhubaoshijiasuijiangmuguangzhuanxiangjuyouwenjiantouzibaozhangdehuangkjin,buduanyongxianchuzhongduosecaiyini、xuxurushengdeshejizhuti。

lace bowxiongzhen-bali,1949nian
huangkjin、bojin、zuanshidazaodeleisijiexiongzhenchengxianchurouruanlingdongdeshijuexiaoguo。
zaizheigeshidai,huangkjinyaoshenbianweizhubaoshipinde“jinfangxian”,“bianzhi”chubaokuorenziwendai、pingzhenzhiwu、bosha、wangge、dizhu、shengjieyuhudiejiedengjingmeipeishi。zhengge20shiji40niandai,leisihudiejieshengjiyishi,paoguangloukonghuangkjinyuzuanshipeishijiaoxianghuiying,zhanxianchuzuopinrutongleisibandexinijingqiao。
1950年代:创新理念风起云涌
20shiji50niandai,jingguocankuzhanzhengxilihoudegeguojiazhengchuyubaifeidaixingdejieduan。suizhejishuchuangxinhexinxingcaizhidecengchubuqiongyijigukequndebuduanzhuangda,gechuangyilingyudefazhanchengxianchufengqiyunyongzhishi。cishi,gedashechipinshijiadouzaichuangzaolihuinuandehuanjingzhongzhujianfusu,yishijian,zongqinghuanyudeshejilinianzaishishangjiezhonghuanxinsheng。zheiqizhongdedaibiaoxingzuopinbianshikelisiting.diao(christian dior)new lookxilie。

zipxianglian-bali,1951nian
huangkjin、bojin、zuanshidazaodexiangliantongguoladongjiguan,keyicongxianglianbianshenshouhuan。
yucitongshi,fankeyabaoshoukuanzipxianglianyu1950niandansheng。zuanshiqianyubojinzhishang,yubaikjingongtongzhujiuxiangliandeyazhifengyun,kediaojieshejizefuyuxianglianliangzhongjieranbutongdepeidaifangshi:lakaishikezuoweihualixianglianpeidai,erhelonghouzekehuazuojingmeishouzhuo。zhihou,zheiyijingdianxianglianbianbuduanyigezhongxingshimianshi,chicunhuozhanghuoduan,latoushejiyichengxiansizhongjieranbutongdefengge。
1960年代:享乐主义与趣味动物
20shiji60niandaixianglezhuyipoweishengxing,zhuangshiyishudebiaoxianxingshi、zuopinsecaiyijicaizhidedaopengbofazhan。sihurenhequanxinyuansujunnenggouyunyongdaozhuangshiyishuzuopindeshejizhonglai。zheiyishiqi,fankeyabaodela boutiquexiliezuopindeshejirongrugengjiaduoyuandezhenguibaoshi,danshoujiaquegengjiapingyijinren,qizhongbaokuoduokuanyouhuangkjinhebaoshidazaodebiejuyigededongwuzhutishejizuopin。

blue birdxiongzhen-bali,1963nian
1970年代:夸张华美
20shiji70niandaijianzhenglefaguozaifamingchuangzao、jingjifazhan、shenghuofangshizhuanbian、yijixincailiaofangmiandefeisufazhan。fengmi70niandaideqianweishishangchaoliuyezaizhubaoshejishangyousuotixian。

anneauxxianglian-bali,1973nian

birdxiongzhen-niuyue,1971-1972nian
caiyonghuangkjin、96.62kelahuangzuan、zuanshi、lanbaoshi、zumulvdazao,zheikehuangzuanyuanweiershishijisansishiniandaizhuminggechangjiajiana.wasika(ganna walska, 1887-1984)shouzang。
zaoxingkuazhanghuameidezhangxianglianyijiushidangshiliuxingdebibeijiapin,yichanraohuokelihuangkjinweijidi,zhuiyibutoumingdansanfaguangzhimeidelvsongshi、shanhu、feicuiyijiqingjinshidengshizhu。zaizhenxibaoshizhubaolingyu,caiyongleyouzhenxibaoshihediaokebaoshi(zishuijing、huangshuijing、hailanbao、bixiyijizilihuishideng)dizaoerchengdefengfutuan,yangshixinying、secaixuanli,jinxianhexiezhimei。
1980年代和1990年代:归于古典的气质
ruguoshuo20shiji70niandaidedaimingcishiziyou,neime80niandaideshishangchaoliuzeshiyou“zhixu”、“jianyue”yiji“zhuangzhong”zheijigecizhudao。zhubaotaozhuangjuyounonghoude、guiyugudiandeqizhi,weimiaodejihexiantiaogoulechulefanfujingzhidejiegou。guijinshuzhubaojiazuocaiyonglebaokuoshanhu、xiangya、zhenzhumubeidengyoujicaizhi,dapeihuangkjinhuocaisebaoshi。muzhicaizhizhonghuo:qinglai,beiyunyongyupeiyouhudiejieshejidezhubaozhenpinzhong。

venicexianglian-bali,1985nian
zhenxibaoshizhubaolingyudeshishangqushiyu20shiji70niandaixingchengxianmingduibi。zuoweijingmeizhubaotaozhuangdeyibufen,duanxianglianzai20shiji80niandaizaiduhuiguishishangzhuliu。huangkjincaizhiyouweiliuxing, snowflakeyuvenice xianglianlinlijinzhiditixianlezheiyichaoliu,xiangyoumingliangshiqiegezuanshidexiaoxingxingxingtuantongguojinsiwangjinmilianjiezaiyiqi。
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深圳市罗湖区翠竹街道贝丽北路金展珠宝广场二十层20F-05/06
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